Why is Vitamin A an essential Vitamin to have in your skin care routine?
Why is Vitamin A an essential Vitamin to have in your skin care routine?
Vitamin A is an important nutrient for the skin, both when ingested and applied topically, however, there are varying sources of information, and some of it not always credible. Vitamin A, in particular, can be dangerous when consumed in excess, and certain forms of it are not suitable for use in cosmetics.
In this blog I will focus on the types of Vitamin A that we keep hearing about in our skincare that can help with a range of skin conditions.
WHAT FORMS OF VITAMIN A ARE USED IN COSMETICS?
It is important to explain at this early stage, that the ‘active’ form of vitamin A within the skin recognized and used by receptors is trans-retinoic acid, also known as tretinoin.
Retinoic acid (tretinoin) is known to regulate skin keratinocyte growth and differentiation.
THE VITAMIN A BREAKDOWN
The types of vitamin A you will see in cosmetics include:
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Retinoic Esters gentle, non-irritating supporting form of Vitamin A – a great starting point if you are new to this ingredient or have sensitive skin!
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Retinol is a strong and active retinoid proven to produce results from concentrations as little as .01%-1% and found in over the counter cosmetics. It has the same effects as Retinoic Acid with reduced irritation
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Retinal (or Retinaldehyde) is a very strong retinoid and the less commonly used Aldehyde form
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Retinyl Palmitate & Retinol Acetate - Is an Ester form that converts to Retinol inside the skin, this form makes up 80% of the Vitamin A in the skin
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Beta Carotene- This belongs to the Carotenoid group, this is not a Vitamin A, however it is a precursor and gets converted to Vitamin A in the body. This a long slow and complicated process and there a better forms of Vitamin A to support your skin.
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Retinoic Acid- (e.g. Tretinoin) is the strongest form of Vitamin A, you can only access this with a prescription from a GP or dermatologist here in Australia – you won’t find this in any skincare!
DOES VITAMIN A GET ABSORBED BY THE SKIN?
Yes. It has good epidermal penetration, in a variety of forms. Enzymes within the skin are able to readily convert various forms of vitamin A to its active, retinoic acid form.
Studies have also shown it does not increase plasma levels of vitamin A when applied to the skin, meaning that although it is absorbed easily by the epidermis, it does not make its way into the blood stream, providing effective transient skin benefits only.
SOME RETINOL ALTERNATIVES
These ingredients are alternatives that are trending of late and can most definitely be great supporting ingredients or replacements of the standard Vitamin A’s we mentioned above.
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Bakuchiol is a vegan, plant-based retinol alternative, a gentler option to traditional retinols.
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DermaPrep™ is a multifunctional retinoid mimicking peptide supporting skin rejuvenation.
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Lanablue™ is a blue-green algae extract with a blend of phytoretinoids that make it a great Vitamin A alternative with the minimised risk of irritation.
STEP UP YOUR A GAME
When implementing a Vitamin A or Vitamin A alternative product into your routine for the first time, a good rule of thumb is; Start Low, Go Slow. Introducing any new product into your routine, we always recommend a patch test and starting off just a few times a week, and then increasing nightly usage if necessary. It is always recommended to consult a professional therapist to find the best products suited to your skin concerns. Always follow the instructions on the product packaging.
I recommend at the beginning especially, if not always buffering (Mixing in) Retinol with your night cream. This will help with the tolerance your skin has to adjusting to it. So many people avoid using Retinol because they have had a bad experience and get what we call a Retinol response, this is redness, severe flaking and irritation and when severe this is usually because of incorrect use such as going in to hard and fast, not buffering, using one to strong and not applying it correctly. If you avoid these mistakes your skin will feel amazing and reap all the benefits. Having a severe retinol response doesn’t have to be part of using Vitamin A and shouldn’t be!
THE A+ BENEFITS
- Reduces the look of fine lines and wrinkles as it stimulates collagen production
- Highly effective at rejuvenating skin
- Exfoliating properties allow for ultimate absorption of other ingredients and reduce clogged pores
- Treats acne breakouts
- Boosts skin resurfacing
- Refines and visibly brightens
- Helps retexturize and smooth skin tone
- Fades age spots
DELIVERY- Biomimtic Delivery Systems are the best way to deliver Retinol. This draws the Vitamin deeper into the skin whist encapsulated in a waterproof sphere and allows the product to release the ingredient over a 2 hour period deep down where the product needs to perform. This minimalises surface irritation and aids in overal better penetration.
WHEN SHOULD RETINOL AND ITS DERIVATIVES BE USED WITH CAUTION (OR AVOIDED)?
Because of its known potential irritation, retinol should be avoided in skin care products for those with sensitive skin (unless using a form that is suitable), as well as babies and children.
It has significant skin renewal performance, so it should also be avoided in sun care products, but is suitable in after sun products where there is no sun exposure.
Because it can be toxic in high quantities when ingested, it should not be used in lip care products where incidental ingestion could be significant over the course of a day.
Steer clear if using some medications such as:
- Acitretin (Soriatane), used to treat psoriasis
- Bexarotene (Targretin), used to treat the skin effects of T-cell lymphoma
- Orlistat (Alli, Xenical), a weight-loss drug
- Always check with your GP if you are unsure of medication interactions as well.
- Do not use if pregnant or breastfeeding as well.
Should You Use Retinol During the Day?
My official answer is no, you should not use retinol during the day. In saying that some forms of Vitamin A like Retinyl Palmitate & some of the alternatives such as Bakuchiol are safe to use during the day and are quite often used in day creams along with vit C and used for antioxidant properties.
The reason for this is because retinol is is extremely sensitive to sunlight and particularly to ultra violet light A (UVA) and the vitamin is damaged by exposure to light. It is also a reparative ingredient, so it’s best to use it at night when your skin’s natural reparative processes are at their peak. This will allow you to reap all the benefits retinol has to offer.
When deciding which skincare ingredients to use in the morning vs. evening, the best strategy is to work with your skin’s natural circadian rhythm. During the day, when your skin is in defence mode, use protective ingredients like sunscreen, antioxidants, and Vitamin C. At night, when your skin is renewing itself, use reparative ingredients like retinol or exfoliating acids. Another benefit of using active ingredients like retinol at night is that your skin barrier is more permeable. This allows products to penetrate deeper and work better than they would during the day.
What About Sun Sensitivity?
You’ve probably heard that using retinol during the day is a huge no-no because it makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. This photosensitivity is actually a cumulative effect that occurs due to the fact that retinol increases cell turnover. This means that fresh, new skin cells are constantly being brought to the surface. These cells are more vulnerable to sun damage than dry, dead skin cells. This is why it’s so important to wear sunscreen every day when you’re using a retinol product—even if you’re only using that retinol product at night.
As I said before, it’s best to work in harmony with your body’s natural cycles. Using retinol in your evening routine is a good way to do this.
O Cosmedics formulas use a combination of pure Retinol for an instant hit of Vitamin A and a microencapsulated stable form of Retinol for a slow release of Vitamin A delivered deep into the skin.
O Cosmedics products with vit A
- Retinoic Oil
- Potent Retinol 0.5%
- Retinol Concentrate
- Pure Age Defiance Serum